Classic “Tondonia”, the nose exhibits the classic characteristics of sweet strawberries and leather. It is bright, perfumed and vibrant at the same time. It has wonderful complexity with integrated hints of vanilla and that warming, autumnal feel which will make any aficionado of Spanish wines feel at home.
The palate is where there is a slight lift: it is lip-smackingly fresh with fine acidity and tart raspberry fruit. There is a real line to this 2006; quite different to the open generosity of 2005. The tannins are super-fine, yet the structure of the wine is clear, all supported by gentle, supremely integrated oak. To complete a near-perfect picture is the serious, yet wonderfully long finish – a finish that is subtly complex yet which goes on and on towards nuanced depths.
It would be impossible not to enjoy this wine now, yet it still feels young. It will relax slightly, opening up even more over the next couple of years – and has wonderful potential for longevity. Enjoy at its peak from 2021 to ’35 onwards, but don’t be put off trying it now with a bit of air.